ON CULINARY CLOUD NINE AT NIMBUS

 

Prawn Bisque Noodles and Herbed Crusted Lamb Rack are two heavenly show-stoppers that left an indelible impression during our maiden visit to Nimbus.

Helmed by restaurateur-chef Fred Choong and his business partner Long Seh Yung, Nimbus draws a relatively young, hip crowd for its fine-dining level menus minus bank-breaking prices. At RM388+ for a four-course menu catering for two persons, it’s considered a snip compared to other atas (posh) restaurants in the Klang Valley.

Dinner started on a promising note with the house-made Almond Milk Bread wowing us with its cottony-softness. Slathered with sublime Mushroom Truffle Butter, it was a harbinger of Choong’s culinary artistry. BTW, the bread and butter are available for takeaway at RM10 each and RM45 per 100g.

For the 1^st course, the options listed in the menu included Seared Scallops with Tom Kha Emulsion, Capers and Ikura (supplementary charge of RM15), Turmeric Chicken Terrine, Salmon and Cured Yolk with Smoked Capsicum Sorbet, Prawn Paste and Fungus or the chef’s Octopus and Yam creation.

The natural sweetness of scallops was perked up by the bright, citrusy-grassy and creamy accents of Thai-inspired tom kha emulsion. Subtle bursts of capers’ tartness and salmon roe’s savouriness amped up the dish’s appeal.

Familiar Asian flavours shone through the escargot topped Turmeric Chicken Terrine. Sandwiched between thin, crisp puff pastry, we relished the playful textural combination with salted egg yolk cream.

Salmon and Cured Yolk with Smoked Capsicum Sorbet, Prawn Paste and Fungus proved Choong’s adroit ability at mixing and matching flavours and textures. A most creative French-style dish brimming with intriguing Malaysian accents especially that rojak-like sauce. Unbelievable but it worked like a charm.

Similar to the evergreen yam cake, Choong’s tantalising speciality of Octopus and Yam showed how a local favourite can be levelled up. The chef’s ingenious idea of placing grilled baby octopus atop an oblong chunk of yam pudding incorporating dried shrimps and chilli, and puffed rice crisps was excellent.

For the second course of Oyster Royale, dried oyster-infused oil and jus bestow depths of flavour to dulcet-smooth egg custard topped with herring roe. We also found a pair of plump oysters embedded within silky custard.

Riffs of Penang-style prawn mee made the Prawn Bisque Noodles (supplementary charge of RM28) a stellar crowd-pleaser in our book. Toothsome squid ink wantan noodles cooked in prawn broth made a sublime pairing with a whole grilled river prawn accentuated with zingy gochujang for this signature speciality. Slivers of pickled torch ginger flower and ikura added the finishing touches.

Choong’s personal favourite of Herbed Crusted Lamb Rack (supplementary charge of RM98) had us smitten at first bite. The medium rare lamb rack enticed us in with its juicy tenderness. Tricked up with longan jus and roasted garlic alongside potato dauphinoise, the delectable dish was something to write home about.

No less compelling was Mushroom and Artichoke Risotto with capers, sundried tomato and noisette beurre blanc (hazelnut butter sauce). The sundried tomato’s muted tangy accent tempered the creamy rich risotto whilst lightly grilled eringi mushroom gave the ensemble a slight meaty texture.

We found the Guinea Fowl Tortellini with seaweed beurre blanc, cordyceps flower and goji berries a tad underwhelming. It was still delicious but this speciality was eclipsed by earlier, more stellar offerings.

Choong is a dab hand at both savoury and sweet dishes as we soon discovered when it was time for dessert. His exquisite Sesame and Matcha creation with toasted sesame, summer berries and vanilla ice cream was refreshingly beguiling.

Exuding heavenly lusciousness, we readily succumbed to his sweet iterations of Hazelnut and Chocolate, Strawberry and Cream, and Orange Pudding. These stellar treats succeeded in lifting us up to a culinary cloud nine known as Nimbus.

For reservations, contact NIMBUS, 72G, Jalan SS 21/62, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

TUAN YUAN THIS DRAGON YEAR AT LE MEI, LE MERIDIEN PUTRAJAYA

 

An impressive dragon-shaped yee sang and a romantic setting heralded the Chinese New Year sneak preview at Le Mei Chinese restaurant, Le Meridien Putrajaya.

The cosy affair saw pretty lasses in qi pao greeting us at the door with tempting pineapple tarts, mandarin orange macarons and peanut tartlets along with mocktails. With Valentine’s Day four days after the first day of CNY, the hotel's novel idea seemed timely and appropriate. 

The multiple course CNY Tuan Yuan (reunion) set menus featured Chef Lim Kian Meng and team’s traditional and contemporary specialities. Available now until 25 February 2024, Yee Sang selection is priced from RM60 – RM388 depending on portion sizes. Splendour and Luxurious set menus for table of 5 are at RM1,590 nett with a complimentary bottle of wine.

Our preview got off to a rousing start with everyone stirring up the dragon-shaped yee sang laid out; a boisterous experience as we all stirred and tossed the fresh salad with joyful shouts wishing for prosperity, abundance and fortune.

Sampling the Salmon, Tosaka Nori Green and Butter Fish Yee Sang, we found the well-balanced dish teased our palate with a mélange of sweet, tangy and refreshing flavours. The various crisp, crunchy and succulent textures melded cohesively.

 

The heartwarming Double Boiled Silkie Fowl Soup with Dried Scallops, Dendrobium and American Ginseng packed a bittersweet punch at first sip. My palate was instantly awakened but perhaps some diners may find it too strong for their liking. However, the hotel team had taken note of this feedback and once the amount of American ginseng used is adjusted, we are sure the nutritious soup should hit the spot.

 

You have to be a fan of interesting smooth and slippery textures with the epicurean speciality of Braised Whole 6-head Abalone with Fish Maw and Goose Web in Premium Oyster Sauce.

 

Although some may baulk at eating goose web, try and appreciate its soft supple texture and collagen-richness. Along with the marble-smooth and succulent fish maw and the toothsome chewiness of abalone, the entire ensemble is all about textural mouthfeel. Also, the nuanced marine flavours of the lustrous, savoury sauce packed so much depth it almost induced us to lick the plate clean.

A mutedly zingy black pepper sauce amped up the appeal of Wok Fried Australian Lamb Rack with Black Truffle. We like how the wedge of caramelised onion's crisp sweetness lent a subtle counterpoint to the meaty richness.

Lending a healthy spin to the festive menu was Fried Organic Brown Rice with Quinoa, Seafood and Sakura Shrimps. Slightly nutty with abundant savoury-sweetness coming from the seafood inclusion, this creation was a shoo-in palate-pleaser.

Old-school dessert of Double Boiled Almond Tea with Honey Locust Fruit, Snow Fungus and Black Sesame Dumplings brought the curtains down. The dessert broth's distinctly nutty accent could be a tad strong for non-almond fans but I personally enjoyed the interplay of different textures amidst the delicate creaminess.

 

For elevating good luck and prosperity, don’t pass up the chance to sample Deep-fried Golden Spring Roll of Glutinous Rice Cake, Yam and Sweet Potato. Crisp on the outside, the roll proved enticing with its filling of gooey- and powdery-soft textures.

For tables of 10 persons, Le Mei offers four set menus priced at RM1,988 nett, RM2,688 nett, RM3,688 nett and RM3,888 nett. Instrumental music performed live during weekends for dinner whilst a lion dance will be held from 12 noon onwards on the first day of Chinese New Year at Le Meridien Putrajaya porte cochere.

For reservations at Le Mei, call tel: 03 8689 6888 x 6868 or email: dining.lmputrajaya@lemeridien.com. More information at this link: https://lnk.bio/hDlm

 

GOOD LUCK, GREAT HEALTH AND EXTRA YUMMINESS WITH AN VIET 'S YEE SANG

 
Crunchy lotus seeds play a key role in Ăn Viet's Festive Yee Sang salad. According to the Chinese saying, “吃了 Ăn Viet 香脆 莲子鱼生, 包你捞了好运莲莲”, which means whoever eats Ăn Viet’s Yee Sang will enjoy continuous good luck throughout the year.

Besides the inclusion of lotus seeds for nutty taste and extra crunch, we like the fact only 100% fresh, natural vegetables and fruits are used to compose the colourful salad.

Shredded radish, carrot and young mango form the central base. Little tubs of Vietnamese radish and carrot pickles, sweet corn kernels, fresh mint leaves, shredded lettuce, roasted peanuts, snow pear chunks, cherry tomatoes and promegranate seeds are arranged inside the platter. This is to ensure minimum mess and for easy assembly prior to serving. Fresh lime wedges, smoked salmon and a house-made citrusy sauce act as the crowning glory to complete it.

For takeaway, Ăn Viet’s Crunchy Lotus Seeds Yee Sang comes in a nifty platter with a transparent lid. The outer wraparound packaging is designed for easy hand-carry.

To enjoy, simply squeeze the lime juice over the Yee Sang then place the smoked salmon on top. Then pour the citrusy sauce all over the salad and invite everyone to toss and stir the Yee Sang accompanied by declarations of ‘loh hei’ or ‘loh sang’ and other auspicious sayings.

We give two thumbs up to Ăn Viet’s Crunchy Lotus Seeds Yee Sang as the overall taste is delightfully refreshing. All the various components blend harmoniously; the layers of textures perked up by the tantalising citrusy sauce.

You can purchase Ăn Viet’s Yee Sang from 20 January – 24 February 2024. Large portion for 4- 6 persons is priced at RM68.88++ and Small for 2-3 persons at RM28.88++.

For more information, please contact any of the Ăn Viet restaurants as per the details given above.