Showing posts with label oysters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label oysters. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 19, 2024

ON CULINARY CLOUD NINE AT NIMBUS

 


Prawn Bisque Noodles and Herbed Crusted Lamb Rack are two heavenly show-stoppers that left an indelible impression during our maiden visit to Nimbus.
Helmed by restaurateur-chef Fred Choong and his business partner Long Seh Yung, Nimbus draws a relatively young, hip crowd for its fine-dining level menus minus bank-breaking prices. At RM388+ for a four-course menu catering for two persons, it’s considered a snip compared to other atas (posh) restaurants in the Klang Valley.
Dinner started on a promising note with the house-made Almond Milk Bread wowing us with its cottony-softness. Slathered with sublime Mushroom Truffle Butter, it was a harbinger of Choong’s culinary artistry. BTW, the bread and butter are available for takeaway at RM10 each and RM45 per 100g.
For the 1st course, the options listed in the menu included Seared Scallops with Tom Kha Emulsion, Capers and Ikura (supplementary charge of RM15), Turmeric Chicken Terrine, Salmon and Cured Yolk with Smoked Capsicum Sorbet, Prawn Paste and Fungus or the chef’s Octopus and Yam creation.
The natural sweetness of scallops was perked up by the bright, citrusy-grassy and creamy accents of Thai-inspired tom kha emulsion. Subtle bursts of capers’ tartness and salmon roe’s savouriness amped up the dish’s appeal.


Familiar Asian flavours shone through the escargot topped Turmeric Chicken Terrine. Sandwiched between thin, crisp puff pastry, we relished the playful textural combination with salted egg yolk cream.

Salmon and Cured Yolk with Smoked Capsicum Sorbet, Prawn Paste and Fungus proved Choong’s adroit ability at mixing and matching flavours and textures. A most creative French-style dish brimming with intriguing Malaysian accents especially that rojak-like sauce. Unbelievable but it worked like a charm.

Similar to the evergreen yam cake, Choong’s tantalising speciality of Octopus and Yam showed how a local favourite can be levelled up. The chef’s ingenious idea of placing grilled baby octopus atop an oblong chunk of yam pudding incorporating dried shrimps and chilli, and puffed rice crisps was excellent.

For the second course of Oyster Royale, dried oyster-infused oil and jus bestow depths of flavour to dulcet-smooth egg custard topped with herring roe. We also found a pair of plump oysters embedded within silky custard.

Riffs of Penang-style prawn mee made the Prawn Bisque Noodles (supplementary charge of RM28) a stellar crowd-pleaser in our book. Toothsome squid ink wantan noodles cooked in prawn broth made a sublime pairing with a whole grilled river prawn accentuated with zingy gochujang for this signature speciality. Slivers of pickled torch ginger flower and ikura added the finishing touches.

Choong’s personal favourite of Herbed Crusted Lamb Rack (supplementary charge of RM98) had us smitten at first bite. The medium rare lamb rack enticed us in with its juicy tenderness. Tricked up with longan jus and roasted garlic alongside potato dauphinoise, the delectable dish was something to write home about.
No less compelling was Mushroom and Artichoke Risotto with capers, sundried tomato and noisette beurre blanc (hazelnut butter sauce). The sundried tomato’s muted tangy accent tempered the creamy rich risotto whilst lightly grilled eringi mushroom gave the ensemble a slight meaty texture.

We found the Guinea Fowl Tortellini with seaweed beurre blanc, cordyceps flower and goji berries a tad underwhelming. It was still delicious but this speciality was eclipsed by earlier, more stellar offerings.


Choong is a dab hand at both savoury and sweet dishes as we soon discovered when it was time for dessert. His exquisite Sesame and Matcha creation with toasted sesame, summer berries and vanilla ice cream was refreshingly beguiling.

Exuding heavenly lusciousness, we readily succumbed to his sweet iterations of Hazelnut and Chocolate, Strawberry and Cream, and Orange Pudding. These stellar treats succeeded in lifting us up to a culinary cloud nine known as Nimbus.



For reservations, contact NIMBUS, 72G, Jalan SS 21/62, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

Wednesday, October 25, 2023

HERALDING HAIRY CRAB SEASON AT ELEGANT INN


Although unfathomable, there are people who prefer a ‘hands free’ way of savouring hairy crabs. Elegant Inn HK Cuisine’s the 6-course Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set (RM368++ per person, min 2 diners per table) will fulfill this desire with aplomb.

The indulgent set will allow you to do what Hong Kongers - well-heeled or otherwise - fervently enjoy i.e. yue chi lou farn, literally dousing shark’s fin with rice. It's a popular euphemism for enjoying in the high life. The set menu’s penultimate course of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice is guaranteed to be a conversation-stopper.

But I digress. Our dining party experienced first-hand, both Elegant Inn’s two Hairy Crab Set menus. For the Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set, a triumvirate of sublime appetisers: a shot glass of smooth Steamed Silky Egg with Hairy Crab Roe, Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll, and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll started our party rolling with a big bang.

Every spoonful of that crab roe laden steamed egg sent shivers of delight down our spine. The crisp prawn roll tantalised with its British-style aromatic, sweetish curried filling. E.I.’s perennial smooth rice roll with its crisp centre, for textural and flavour contrasts rounded up this platter.  

Sampling the collagen-rich Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage, Pork Rib Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith, we couldn't get enough of the broth's flavourful depth and rich umaminess.
I have yet to meet anyone who’d turn down a sumptuous dish of Braised 7-head South Africa Abalone. At E.I. you know you're getting the good stuff thanks to the lady proprietress' exacting standards.

Complemented by slices of Pan Seared Spanish Iberico Pork and Handmade Fish Curd in Abalone Sauce, the premium shellfish's natural marine-sweetness and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness was simply orgasmic. T
he rich-tasting Iberico pork was a masterstroke as the pork not only soaked in the complex sauce but also amplified the nuances whilst the puffy fish curd was a delicate work of deft culinary skills.
Stronger, heartier flavours prevailed in the Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Fleeting whiffs and accent of the fresh citrusy lime in the fried spring chicken was discernible. Crispy garlic bits brought pops of faint sweet pungency to each mouthful.
Words aren't adequate to describe that superbly sublime serving of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice. That fluffy, lightly fried rice with slivers of egg stirred with lustrous hairy crab roe and shark's fin-imbued broth will leave you on otherworldly gastronomic heaven.

A flaky light Bird’s Nest Egg Tartlet accompanied by a bowl of nourishing dessert broth of Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel left us happily satiated.
To satisfy true-blue hairy crab fans, E.I. pulls out the stops with a 6-course Hairy Crab Set (RM268++ per person, min of 2 per table).
The opening salvo of Porcini Smoked Farm Egg (add French Goose Liver for RM28) gave the Happy Start platter a slightly different, more solid taste dimension. Along with Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll, the harmonious trio acted as nice precursors of the other goodies in store.

Providing tonic for the soul is Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage and Pork Rib Soup with Fried Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith. Smoother textural interest can be amped up with 'far kaw' or Fish Maw at an additional RM30.

It was such a luxury having a team of service experts to crack and prepare the leading ‘star’, a 5-tael Steamed Live Hairy Crab for us to savour. Nowadays, it seems the amount of roe in these crabs are down to luck of the draw.
 
Sometimes male crabs (look for a bell-shape pattern on its underbelly) have more of that creamy yellow-orange roe. The roe of female crabs tends to appear reddish-orange, in firmer clumps but no less delectable. We were told in China hairy crabs are available year-long but they're at their prime eating quality between late September and early November.
After the E.I. team efficiently handled the requisite prep work, we feasted like royalty, feasting with ease: merely scooping up the roe and picking the bits of sweet flesh from the legs and claws to sample. Hot cups of warming Bentong ginger tea helped to balance the cooling effects of eating those salubrious crabs.
Our tastebuds readily welcomed the robust dimension of the crispy Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Most certainly a welcome change after the earlier, more delicate spectrum of texture and flavour. 
Braised Hot & Sour Handmade Noodles with a whole Crunchy Oyster awakened our tastebuds to vividly piquant accents.
From the delightfully silky, toothsome noodle strands to the tantalising tart-tangy and slightly punchy broth, we had nothing but high praises for the dish. The splendid finishing touch was a whole Japanese oyster, enticingly sheathed in ethereal crisp-crunchy batter.
 
Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel and Osmanthus Sea Coconut Pumpkin Pudding rounded off our meal on a splendid albeit mutedly sweet note.
 
Fans of hairy crabs can feast to their hearts’ content at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine where two set menus are available until early November 2023.
For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

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