Chef James Thong is one of the few young, talented chefs in KL today whom I admire. The lad's creativity is evident from the moment you savour his culinary offerings at The Loaf. Now everyone knows who owns the bakery while scores of others have raved over its scrumptious breads and U hu! hu! cheesecakes. Amazingly, few has any inkling of the delicious secrets that await them at the bistro.
It's tranquil and understated dining room can sometimes be pretty well-occupied but the noise level is unlikely to rise to more than an audible hum.
We decided to try the Malaysian Grand Prix Menu - at RM48++ the set seemed like a fab deal with a starter, soup, main course, dessert and a glass of non-alcoholic wine included. The outlet's Oyju Japanese set meals also proved to be equally good value - one set costs RM40, two for RM70 and if you go for all 3 it's RM100. We settled for the Tsubaki and Sumire sets.
As for the Cream of Corn...aaahh...it's the very personification of the word 'sweet' corn. Satiny smooth with a buttery sweetness, this is one soup that packed soulful goodness in every spoonful. Even my nephew who's the fussiest of eaters actually asked for seconds once he tried a sip!
When the Tsubaki set arrived, we discovered it certainly redefined the term 'thinking out of the box'! Packed with five petite-size temptations, we quickly dug in. First was the Cream of Wild Mushroom - served piping hot in a hallowed out sesame bun, both my sis and I couldn't decide which tasted better. They're a match made in heaven!
Our palates were further elevated by the Asparagus Soup - snug in its little, warm country-style bread receptacle, we relished every drop of its clean, slightly brassy nuance.
The onslaught of orgasmic flavours continued with Avocado Chawan Mushi. Warm, silky and rich, the shiitake-infused and avocado-layered egg custard simply seduced the palate with its musky accent.
Pursuant to his brief stint at Salt - one of Australia's top restaurants owned by celebrity chef, Luke Mangan, Chef Thong replicates the famed eatery's signature amuse bouche (appetizer) - Salmon-Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg in the Sumire set. I admit I couldn't find adequate words to describe this sublime creation - you must savour it for yourself to fully grasp the ingenuity of this amazing starter.
Now the Boiled Edamame (Japanese green soya beans) may seemed like a no-brainer addition but juxtaposed against the supremely indulgent dish of Prawn Fritters with Spicy Miso Mayonnaise, their no-frills, minimalist note became crystal clear in the overall scheme of things.
The main course that was part of the Malaysian Grand Prix set we ordered truly deserved a podium finish. Generously doused in a tantalisingly spicy, chunky tomato sauce with subtle tartness, the perfectly 'al dente' pasta can easily be mistaken for a feisty Arrabiatta. Shards of asparagus and springy fresh prawns wrapped in airy 'tempura' batter further livened up the dish's unmistakable appeal.
It looks like Chef Thong's sterling performance will leave quite a few of his competitors trailing in his wake in the intense race for culinary supremacy. And we're lovin' it!
THE LOAF (pork-free)
Lot 3.13.00 & 4.12.02
Level 3 & 4 Pavilion Kuala Lumpur
168 Jalan Bukit Bintang
Tel: 2145 3036